Well, if you're gonna do it on the spot, you can try this.
(This method assumes you are not simply cutting the barrel in
half.)
Often barrels have some liquid in the bottom.
You can find out if there is water in it by pushing some cord into
the
entrance the bees are using. If the end is wet when you pull it out,
then drill a hole (1/4" or so)
next to the head at the bottom, and tip the bbl to allow the water
to flow out.
Then if bees fall to the bottom they won't drown.
If you're gonna transport a wine-barrel
with bees in it, DON'T tip it over.
• It may have water in it, and lots of bees will get drowned.
• With the bumping (and rolling) moving the bbl the comb may get
broken loose.
So have a plan for lifting the bbl onto the bed of a pickup truck
in the same
orientation you found it. If the bbl is on its side, Mark the
--TOP-- before moving anything.
If it has water in it, drain it before moving it.
To get the bees out you need to take out (lift up) the "head."
You need to screw a board to all the boards on top so that,
once the end two or three bands are removed, you can work it up and
out once it’s loose.
§§
(so your board should be easy to grab and pull on)
If the bbl was vertical, the bees will be hanging from the top,
along with any comb they've built.
If the bbl was horizontal, you'll have to reach in from the side to
get the bees.
How you get them out will depend on how much comb they built, and
the orientation of it.
You have to take off a couple of bands to loosen the staves so you
can pry them
apart enough to get the head out.
The bands are held in place by short nails. You can see one in the
picture.
It's not a rivet in the band. It's an anchor for the band.
You either have to pull the nails or grind the heads off. (Or file
flat and drill out the nail)
Grinding will probably minimize the disturbance to the bees.
Minimize pounding.
Once the staves are loose, lift or pry up the head gently because
the bees will be hanging from it.
Be alert to the possibility things could
spring apart and drop the head to the bottom of the barrel!
So screw onto the head a second wood strip that's longer than the
barrel is wide.
Be patient. This is like precision work.
Anyone who's done it before, do you have a better strategy based on
your experience?
Jim Veitch and I only got bees out of a 55-gallon drum, and a
water-heater tank,
so our experience is limited.
§§ I
recommend a 2-by-4 just a little shorter than the diameter of
the head,
with rabbits cut on both ends. You'll need 2 inch screws.
Pre-drill the 2x4 to make it easier.
Two screws per board in the barrel head.
Obviously the 2x4 is oriented perpendicular to the head boards, so
you can pick them all up together.
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The rabbit will give you some place to pry against with
your pry-bar.
The fulcrum will be the barrel stave.
On 4/13/24 3:10 PM, Leo Meier wrote:
I can work on it. But only if I can remove the top of the wine barrel. I have never done a trap out.
On Apr 13, 2024, at 3:02 PM, Gerald Przybylski via swarm-list <swarm-list [at] alamedabees.org> wrote:
The people who expressed interest decided not to follow up.
So this opportunity is still open.
6789 Glen Mawr
Nar
510 368-5048
Might like to get the barrel back.
It might face water in it.
Sonar they just moved in today perhaps a Cleo Hogan trap out would work
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